The back story
-
Neighbourhood guide
The Old Quarter: the 36 streets
The guild streets north of the lake, named for silk, silver and paper: temples, tube houses, Đồng Xuân Market and the city’s best noodle shops.

Neighbourhood guide · Hanoi
The guild streets north of the lake: silk on Hàng Gai, temples, Đồng Xuân Market, the cathedral and the Bib Gourmand noodle shops.
Neighbourhood guide
The guild streets north of the lake, named for silk, silver and paper: temples, tube houses, Đồng Xuân Market and the city’s best noodle shops.
Neo-Gothic towers
Twin grey neo-Gothic towers over a small square, with cafés all round.
The great covered market
The big covered market at the north end of the Old Quarter: fabric, household goods and food stalls.
Lunar New Year and Mid-Autumn
Peach blossom and kumquat trees for Tết, and the lantern stalls of Hàng Mã for the Mid-Autumn festival.
Bib Gourmand
Turmeric fish fried at the table with dill. Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide.
6B Đường Thành, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map

Bib Gourmand
Beef phở near St Joseph’s Cathedral. Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide.
10 Lý Quốc Sư, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
Bib Gourmand
Beef phở on Bát Đàn; expect to queue. Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide.
49 Bát Đàn, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
Bib Gourmand
Bún chả near the lake. Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide.
21 Nguyễn Hữu Huân, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
Bib Gourmand
Steamed rice rolls made in front of you. Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide.
14 Hàng Gà, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
Bib Gourmand
Glass noodles with crisp eel. Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide.
87 Hàng Điếu, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
Bib Gourmand
Chicken phở near the cathedral. Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide.
5B Phủ Doãn, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
In the MICHELIN Guide
Contemporary Vietnamese tasting menus near the cathedral. In the MICHELIN Guide.
12C Chân Cầm, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
In the MICHELIN Guide
Contemporary Vietnamese cooking in an old house. In the MICHELIN Guide.
20 Nguyễn Quang Bích, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
In the MICHELIN Guide
Vietnamese cooking by the cathedral. In the MICHELIN Guide.
27 Ngõ Huyện, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
In the MICHELIN Guide
Bún chả on Hàng Mành. In the MICHELIN Guide.
1 Hàng Mành, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
In the MICHELIN Guide
Northern Vietnamese dishes and rice spirits. In the MICHELIN Guide.
5 Hàng Tre, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map
Egg coffee since 1946
The home of Hanoi’s egg coffee: a thick, sweet whipped yolk over strong Vietnamese coffee, down an alley off Nguyễn Hữu Huân.
39 Nguyễn Hữu Huân, Hoàn Kiếm, HanoiExplore View on map
Above Tạ Hiện
A rooftop bar above the Old Quarter, a floor or two above the noise of Tạ Hiện.
22 Tạ Hiện, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, HanoiExplore View on map

Plastic stools and bia hơi
The Old Quarter street where locals and visitors sit on low stools with a cold beer in the evening.
Silk and embroidery
The Old Quarter street of silk shops, tailors and embroidery, a few steps from the lake.
Hand embroidery
Hand-embroidered linens, clothes and gifts on Hàng Gai, from a family of embroiderers.
61 Hàng Gai, Hoàn Kiếm, HanoiExplore View on map
A house of curios
A shop of Vietnamese design, crafts and curios on Nhà Chung, by the cathedral.
12 Nhà Chung, Hoàn Kiếm, HanoiExplore View on map
The covered market
The Old Quarter’s great covered market, and the weekend night market that runs south from it down Hàng Đào.
In the Old Quarter
A boutique hotel on Đường Thành, on the western edge of the Old Quarter.
33 Đường Thành, Hoàn Kiếm, HanoiExplore View on map
By the citadel walls
A boutique hotel on Lý Nam Đế, between the Old Quarter and the citadel.
30B Lý Nam Đế, Hoàn Kiếm, HanoiExplore View on map

Eaten your way round the Old Quarter? Tell the next visitor which noodle shop, temple or café to find.